Tattoo Unconventional

I’ve been living a much quieter life in Pokhara these past few weeks but found myself heading back to the dust and bustle of the capital for an interestingly varied and rather long weekend. The main purpose of the trip, curiously enough, was to check out Nepal’s first ever Tattoo Convention which was organised by a friend of mine, Bijay. It was an intriguing prospect and a chance to see a different side of the Kathmandu counterculture. The convention was a three-day event and hosted tattoo artists and body modification… ummm...technicians (?). What made the whole thing a bit incongruous was the setting – the Yak and Yeti hotel is one of the fancier hotels and as one of my friends pointed out, every other time he’d attended an event there he’d been in a suit listening to boring speeches at some officious function. This was a far cry from that - although it was all done in a very professional and polished way with artists from all over the world in rows of booths presenting their specific styles. It was riveting. Having lived next to the Boardwalk in Venice Beach for many years, I have seen my fair share of tattoo-covered beings and piercings in unusual places, but it doesn’t cease to be captivating looking at all the body artwork. And there was certainly plenty to see at the convention.

I don’t think I would fancy getting tattooed in front of such a big wandering crowd but the impetus was access to renowned, international artists, many of whom have month long waiting lists back at home. They also were charging Nepali prices, so for those inclined, it was a fantastic opportunity. I met one guy that just told the artist where he wanted the piece (his calf), but didn’t specify anything else as he was familiar enough with the style that he just wanted a tattoo by this particular artist.

I think every tattooed, dreadlocked Nepali in Kathmandu was in attendance. Lots of people getting inked and even more milling around observing this or that with the soundscape of buzzing needles as the backdrop. On each of the three days, the convention also presented a band towards the end of the day. There are quite a few interesting fusion bands in Kathmandu and the scene seems to burgeoning. The day I went, Rock Sitar were playing. Unsurprisingly the music is an engaging mixture of rock and sitar music. Bijaya Vaidya, the lead is an acclaimed Nepali sitar player and has built his own standing electric sitar, which is apparently the first of it’s kind.

I have wanted to get my ear re-pierced for many years, so thought this was a good opportunity and a chance to have a little memento of the convention. Ironically, it ended up being a guy from the UK who was one of the piercers. Quentin has a studio in Worthing, Kalima Emporium . He specialises in all kinds of ‘body modifications’. In case you are wondering, these things include but aren’t limited to, tongue splits, Silicon implants under the skin and ‘branding’ which is like making shapes with scar tissue using a laser, rather than the use of hot irons, I was pleased to learn. My ear must have seemed quite pedestrian. Quentin is a charming and personable guy and we had a thought-provoking chat about the attitude of young people today and their motivations for getting tattoos or piercings or any modifications. In comparison to his generation where, he felt there was more of an ethos behind the statements they were making with their bodies, these days it seems to be more just a fashion statement. Some of the more extreme procedures, he will try to talk young people out of doing and tell them to go away and think about it and come back in a few weeks. Before the end, I went back to see Quentin with my friend, Isabel who was intrigued at the whole concept of tongue splits and as I had noted Quentin had such, I suggested we go and ask him about it…

Quentin was travelling with his friend, Spud, another Brit. Spud wasn’t there, as he had fallen prey to troubles that can beset one on arrival in Asia (this was his first trip), so Quentin was heading back to check on him, but had mentioned in passing that Spud had full face tattoos and had been getting a lot of attention. The day before at the convention he’d had hundreds of photos taken (he ended up in the paper numerous times), as well as a number of people just touching him. Personal space is not viewed in the same way in Nepal as it is in some other countries.

Unsurprisingly, I recognised Spud immediately when I saw him in Thamel a few days later (my return to Pokhara was pushed back due to a strike in Kathmandu). Quentin wasn’t with him and I didn’t want to stare, but he was certainly a striking vision walking down the street and of course, garnering a lot of gawping from everyone he passed. I bumped into Quentin a little later and it turned out they were also going to Pokhara. On my first morning back, I was standing on the balcony gazing out at the lake when who should appear but Quentin and Spud. They were staying next door but weren’t happy and we had two rooms free with attached bathrooms so I showed them upstairs and that is how they ended up being my neighbours for a few days.

We had some nice neighbourly chats on the balcony and crossed paths a few times out and about so I had the chance to find out more about them and what they do. They would come to My Favourite Restaurant (that’s the name) and sit gazing out at the lake, in quiet repose. Unless, of course, I was there and they came to sit with me, as then I would continue to query this or that or how or why or whatever… and they were happy to quench my curiosity. They were both very pleasant and easy company. Spud is definitely an example of not judging a book by its cover. He doesn’t drink, smoke, take drugs and is a vegan. He is a (very specific kind of) Tibetan Buddhist so, literally, would not intentionally hurt a fly. But of course, many people assume he is a ‘scary man’ because he is covered in tattoos and piercings. He is very quiet and likes peace, as well as his creature comforts. He listens to classical music and goes to concerts, buying the best seats and generally prefers five star hotels. Asia was a bit of a culture shock for him to say the least, although Pokhara provided some respite. Kathmandu was just too much, too dirty (he is meticulously clean) and hectic and aside from the excessive attention, the whole experience wasn’t helped by not only being ill, but then getting some kind of infection in his foot so he couldn’t walk. This was also the longest he had been away from his four year old son, so suffice to say, he was really looking forward to getting home. He is a stay at home Dad while his partner works in their shop in Birmingham, Karma Clinic, as a sought-after tattoo artist (with a long waiting list). He also has quite an individual take on life and the choices he has made with his body. When I asked him how he ended up getting so inked, he said, “I don’t collect stamps.”